The world of climbing is always pushing boundaries, and nowhere is this more evident than in the realm of bouldering. For years, V17 (or 9A in the French grading system) was a mythical grade, a summit few dared to even whisper about. Now, it's a reality, albeit an incredibly exclusive one. As of early 2024, we're talking about a handful of routes that have truly redefined what's possible.
It all started in Finland, with Nalle Hukkataival's 'Burden of Dreams' back in 2016. That route, a pure power test on the Lappnor wall, took him four years of dedicated attempts. He described it as a 'pure bouldering problem with a vertical and fragile frontal area. No hidden complexity, just pure strength!' It's a testament to his vision and sheer grit that he laid the groundwork for this elite club.
Fast forward to today, and the list, while still tiny, is growing. We've seen routes like 'Return of the Sleepwalker' in the US, first ascended by Daniel Woods in 2021. This one is a beast, a 17-move problem that builds upon Jimmy Webb's already formidable 8C+ 'Sleepwalker'. Woods himself described the initial moves as 'tearing your ligaments' – not exactly an inviting prospect!
Then there's Shawn Raboutou's 'Alphane' in Switzerland, established in 2022. Dave Graham, a legend in his own right, described it as feeling like 'two V15s linked by a long V16'. Raboutou himself had a tough time, even resorting to superglueing his shoes back together between attempts. The sheer dedication required is mind-boggling.
More recently, the UK has entered the V17 conversation with Aidan Roberts' 'Spots of Time' in the Lake District. Roberts, who hasn't officially graded it, has clearly put his heart and soul into it, spending around 30 visits to finally unlock its secrets. It's a point of pride for him to have found such a challenging line so close to home.
And we can't forget Charles Albert, the barefoot climber from France, who put up 'L’Ombre du Voyageur' in 2023. He graded it 9A/V17, though some friends suggested it might even be harder. Albert, however, seems less concerned with the exact number and more with providing a reference point for other climbers. He sees grading as a way to make routes accessible and enjoyable for those operating at that elite level.
Currently, the world boasts six established V17 lines. Three of these have seen repeat ascents, solidifying their grade. The other three are still awaiting confirmation, a testament to the immense difficulty and the small pool of climbers capable of even attempting them. Will Bosi, for instance, has already ticked off three V17s, including 'Burden of Dreams', 'Alphane', and 'Return of the Sleepwalker', cementing his place among the absolute elite.
It's fascinating to see how these routes are established. Some are pure power, others a blend of strength and intricate technique. The physical demands are astronomical, but it's the mental fortitude, the unwavering commitment to solving these complex puzzles, that truly sets these climbers apart. Each V17 line is more than just a number; it's a story of obsession, resilience, and the relentless pursuit of human potential on rock.
