When you hear 'Holland,' your mind probably conjures up images of picturesque canals, endless fields of tulips, and perhaps a charming windmill or two. And while those iconic sights are certainly part of its allure, this country offers so much more, a vibrant tapestry woven with history, art, and a surprisingly diverse atmosphere that stretches far beyond its famous capital.
It's a place where you can easily hop between cities, thanks to a fantastic transport network and the fact that many of its treasures are packed into a relatively small area. This makes exploring multiple facets of Holland in a single trip not just possible, but highly recommended.
During a recent exploration, I found myself based in The Hague, a city by the sea that's just a short hop from Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport. It turned out to be a brilliant starting point, offering easy access to other fascinating spots like Haarlem, the very town that lends its name to the world-famous cheese, Gouda, and Leiden, a city practically synonymous with canals.
But my first real deep dive into Holland's cultural heart took me north, a journey of about two and a half hours, to the city of Groningen. Honestly, I was a bit surprised to find it so often overlooked, even by some locals who playfully cast it aside due to its northern locale. It's true, it's closer to the German border than to Amsterdam, but a couple of hours on the train is hardly a reason to miss out on this absolute gem.
Groningen: A Northern Star
My initial impression of Groningen, like many Dutch cities, was the sheer volume of bicycles. Sixty-one percent of locals cycle daily – it's wonderfully eco-friendly and great for health, but you definitely need to keep your wits about you as a pedestrian! Still, it didn't deter me from exploring on foot.
My first stop was the Martini Tower, a magnificent 17th-century landmark standing 97 meters tall. It's the fourth highest in Holland, and its name, interestingly, comes from Saint Martin, not the Italian drink. The climb up its 260 winding steps was a bit breathless, but the panoramic view over the city was absolutely worth every step. Partway up, I also marveled at the tower's massive bells and a giant cylinder organ, which serenades the city with tunes, adding a unique charm.
The Martini Tower is attached to the Groote Kerk, the city's main church, and sits right on the edge of the Grote Markt, the central square. Across the square, I discovered something perhaps less holy but equally captivating: 'De Drie Gezusters' (The Three Sisters). These are three distinct bars, all interconnected inside, offering a truly atmospheric glimpse into Groningen's rich heritage. One bar, in particular, felt like stepping into a 1930s train carriage, reminiscent of the classic film 'Brief Encounter.' The decor was a delightful blend of rich reds and mahogany in some areas, contrasting with vibrant yellows and blues illuminated by stained glass ceilings in others.
Further exploration led me to the city's Jewish Quarter. Here, an art project poignantly memorializes the lives of Groningen's Jewish residents, many of whom were forced to leave and tragically perished during the Holocaust. The street, Folkingestraat, once the heart of this community, saw the deportation of 2,450 local Jews in 1942, with another 300 following the next year. Today, an art installation runs along the street, featuring brass crescent and full moons embedded in the cobblestones. These symbols are meant to represent an eye, a subtle nod to the fact that many residents witnessed the events but perhaps turned a blind eye. As you walk, you'll also find brass cobblestones, similar to those in other European cities, bearing the names of those deported. It's a moment for quiet reflection on this somber history, leading to a dark-painted door at the street's end, symbolizing both the closing of doors on the Jewish community in the 1940s and the closing of that painful chapter.
Haarlem: A Glimpse of Resilience
Just a few days later, in the city of Haarlem, I encountered more of the history of Dutch Jews. Before arriving, my knowledge of Haarlem was limited...
